Bret

Bret

Bret is an enthusiastic, young, third generation family member within a busy, major retail business, specializing in wedding and engagement jewelry. Bret has also taken formal business schooling and is naturally adept at detailed, hand-eye coordination with studio equipment. Bret has enrolled in an eight week, short term, Apprenticeship Program. His goal is to assist with all repair needs in the service department as well as generate fresh style designs for a line of jewelry in the family's growing business.

 

 

For Bret's mother; 18k yellow gold ring with a bright faceted garnet in a tapered bezel setting. A gentle, folded leaf shaped shank with a comfort fit inner band.

The final polishing of Bret's first gypsy settings on an actual piece of jewelry. A slightly curved wedding band with six fine diamonds carefully set at equal distances.

A special ring for Bret's girlfriend; three fine diamonds in tube-style bezel settings with 18k gold balls placed atop a gently curved ring shank.

With Martinus assistance, Bret has prepared 18k white gold components for a complex, double prong claw setting. Here the claw setting is shown upside down in preparation for the plaster support in the soldering phase.

Here a sterling silver, rectangular bezel setting presents it's challenges. Bret must trim the shorter end of each "L" shape to the width or length of the gemstone. A seat for the gem can be made using the same method and materials. Next the seat will be inserted and soldered from below.

Here sterling silver is used to create tapered bezel settings to practice working with; the pusher, punches , hammers as well as the use of a graver.

Two very different styles of rings for family members with sterling silver bands. One has a ruby in a 18k gold bezel setting showing a hammer finish. The other is a gypsy set sapphire with a brushed finish and modern look.

Correct hand positioning and use of the "punch" for bezel settings.

Soldering a thick bracelet takes intense heat. Here Bret carefully manages to connect ends of the bracelet to form a closed, circular cuff. Next comes the hammering phase.

The hammering phase begins. An evenly curved form for Bret's bracelet will be created on the hammering stake. As well, a finely textured, reflective surface will develop.

Here Bret readily advances from working on practice pieces in sterling silver. He proves that he has learned how to set a cabochon gemstone by successfully setting a blue sapphire in this 14k gold ring.

Here Bret demonstrates that he has learned how to bend shapes evenly using the wedding band press. He also understands proportion in order to estimate filing distances along the ring shank. He is using these rings to refine his gypsy setting skills to perfection!

Bret acquires production efficiencies by learning how to use the same 14k yellow gold material for a ring shank and bezel setting. Both the curved, oval profile shank and setting were drawn simultaneously from one piece on the "draw bench".

The bracelet is complete! Careful iInlay work creates a unique polka dot effect on the surface of this playful, textured bracelet. Bret confidently places nine, fine diamonds in gypsy settings.

Bret's masterpiece and the culmination of nine weeks of steady focus and hard work. A classic piece with three, four claw settings that incorporate three diamonds upon a 14k white gold band. All components have been produced by hand in the Studio - excellent work!

Bret learns the principles of chain making by producing a 14k gold, double link bracelet. Martinus insists on efficiency when possible and shares an unconventional use of the "ball punch" to even out and close the gaps in links. A unique, textured, wavy toggle clasp completes the piece.

Bret is confident with square bezel settings and has worked hard on models to set princess cut diamonds. A forged, spiral ring shank is used to feature the diamond. In this setting-style it is important to ensure that the gem's "gurdle" fits exactly on the surface before connecting the fine, outer bezel to the shank.

Precision work is involved when a project combines white and yellow gold. Here Bret creates a 22k gold leaf form outlined with 14k white gold. Constructed, hollow form techniques were required to create an elegant expression set off by two bezel set fine diamonds.

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